"...Everything Gets Better": The Importance of the First Due Engine.

The actions of the first due engine company have a great impact on the out come a fire .  A well disciplined, self sufficient company is key to success.  

A wise battalion chief and greatly respected personal mentor once said, "If we put the fire out, everything gets better". This recently rang true once again.

Our 24-hour tour was a fairly standard one; a mix of medical calls and fire alarms filled the crisply lined page of the company logbook.  Around 0130 the "long tone" hit.

"Finally!" We moved  down the spiral stairs with haste  and donned our gear, the dispatchers voice crackled over the house page " attention engine 7, engine 1, engine 10, ladder 3, ladder 2, rescue 1, the rescue squad and battalion 1:  an alarm of fire has been transmitted...".  “First due!" I thought, as I slung my flashlight over the top of my SCBA and the pumper raced the 10 or so blocks. 

As we turned into the block it was very apparent this wouldn’t be "meat on the stove".   The officer reported over the radio "engine 7 arriving, signal 30 ( working fire)".   A quick exchange of "200' top floor?” -"Yup" was made prior to leaving the rig.   As the stretch of the nozzle length off the pumper commenced, the boss was talking to an occupant who informed him that there were still additional occupants in the rear bedrooms on the fire floor. He relayed this information to the additional companies. 

After chocking the door from the front porch open, and proceeding to the top of the apartment stairs. I dropped the nozzle, we donned our face pieces and the boss called for water.  As the line filled with water the captain of rescue 1(a two man paramedic unit) alerted us that they would be going ahead of the line to search the rear bedrooms for the occupants.

  The line was bled and we started our push in the door to the left where the main body of fire was.  As the boss chased kinks, I started to cool the thick black velvet like smoke above us. Moving in about 10 more feet we found the main body of fire located in a small "bump out" and front porch. Using the reach of the stream, we started to knock down the bulk of the fire from the porch doorway. As we operated the line, rescue 1 reported they had removed both occupants via the interior stairs. At this point the main body of fire was knocked down.   As additional companies made their way to the fire floor, the task of checking for extension and "opening up" began.  After an hour or so the extensive overhaul was complete and we started to break down the ice-covered hose and shortly returned to quarters where dry clothes awaited.

All in all this fire was a "home run"  due to the efforts of all members involved. The first and second due engines worked together on advancing a line. The first due chauffeur established a positive water source, the trucks threw ladders and opened up and TWO OCCUPANTS WERE SUCCESSFULLY RESCUED. 

Talking to a brother about this job a few days after the fact. He stated, "Wow, you guys still stretched a line even with reported entrapment". At first I wasn't sure what angle he was going for so I had a puzzled look on my face. He elaborated, " Most guys would go for the grab and leave the line". My puzzled look continued.

The job of the first due engine isn't especially glamorous on the list of fire ground tasks but one of absolute necessity. Without water on the fire in a quick and efficient manor, the rest of the priorities come to a screeching halt as conditions become untenable. 

The fire service as a whole just reflected on the 10-year anniversary of a fire that spiraled out of control in a split second and lead to the loss of three brothers. Our goal is to never repeat this and we've undoubtedly made many advances in the arena of "personal safety". Let's try to keep up in the arena of "personal discipline".   

Shortly after the main body of fire was knocked-down(Photo by Ralph David Spence) 

The Hockey Puck Lock: An overview

The Hidden Shackle Padlock or “hockey puck lock” (HPL) as it’s more affectionately known has been a staple in major metropolitan cities for years (photo 1).  However this beefy looking lock is becoming commonplace all over the country from jobsites to cargo and delivery vans (photo 2).  Although this lock has a high intimidation factor,  it’s  fairly simple to over come on the fire-ground.

Before we get into how to defeat the HPL, lets identify the components and it’s operation.  Depending on the exact model it’s either made of solid steel or die cast with a flat or stepped back.  The lock body is 2-7/8" thick with a 1-1/4’’ round-stock shackle (photo 3).  The shackle is located on the backside of the lock face, making it invisible to the general public. The HPL can be used stand alone or paired with a “high security hasp”(photo 4).  This hasp has a shroud that covers the majority of the lock with exception of the keyhole and two side openings to allow the lock to be removed for normal operation. 

Now that a basic understanding has been established, lets transition to what matters most, Fire-ground operations involving the HPL.  Since these locks emerged there has been two basic ways to over come them, shearing or cutting the shackle.

The shearing method is recommended and pictured in many basic fire service textbooks (photo 5). The thought process behind this is to take a pipe-wrench with a cheater bar and exert a twisting force on the shackle with hopes of breaking it and allowing the lock body to be removed from the hasp.  This method has proven to be successful, yet labor intensive.

The second method for removing the HPL is using a saw, with metal cutting capabilities to cut through the lock body and shackle.  This is designed to be a quick and efficient

 operation, however, a solid size up will be required. The first step being to determine if the HPL has a high security hasp or not. If one is present be aware of it while cutting and don’t let the blade “jump” it.    Secondly locating the keyhole and directing your focus ¾ opposite the keyhole on the lock face (photo 6).  This area will be your “sweet spot” as it is directly behind this is the shackle.  If it hasn't already the saw should be procured and started.  Prior to making the first cut think about how the saw should be orientated to the cut (vertical or cradled horizontally) (photos 7 & 8).  As the cut is begun keep the blade steady on an even plane, working your way through the lock

face.  Once through the lock face the shackle should give fairly quickly as the area surrounding it is hollow.  A good gauge of where you're at in the cut is feeling the amount of resistance on the saw while looking  for movements of the lock body.  After the shackle is cut, the final step is to remove the remaining lock body from the hasp.  Once this is done, the lock has been successfully defeated.

A standard hidden shackle padlock or more commonly known hockey puck lock (photo 1, author)

Lock set up on the rear of a cargo van. (Photo 2, author)

1 ¼’’ round stock shackle is what secures the lock through the hasp. (Photo 3, author)

A hockey puck lock in a “high security hasp” (photo 4, author)

Textbook showing the “shearing” method. (Photo 5, photo credit to Fire Officers Handbook, first edition)

The tip of the pen cap points out the ¾ opposite the key- hole area for the cut (photo 6, author )

Horizontal orientation of saw on the lock. (Photo 7, author)    

Vertical orientation of  saw on the lock . (Photo 8, author)

Forcible Entry: Through the Lock.

The 90-degree deadbolt set in a hollow metal door is common all across the country from small towns to large cities (Photo1).  Being able to overcome this lock in a timely and efficient manor can help set the stage for smooth fire-ground operations.   This article will provide an overview of the common methods used to defeat these locks based upon urgency of entry and tools available. 

The most common method is “through the lock”; a two-step processes requiring removal of the lock cylinder and operation of the deadbolt mechanism.  Removing the cylinder can be accomplished using some basic tools.  Upon arrival members of the forcible entry team should conduct a quick size up.  The following should be addressed in short order 1) Is entry needed quickly for life safety or rapid fire spread or is it a less urgent type of call? 2) What tools are at our immediate disposal?  

Once these concerns have been addressed a plan can be formulated.   The steps for defeating this style lock are as follows: Remove cylinder using either a “K-tool”, “rex-tool” (Photo 2).  To do this place either the “K-tool” or “rex-tool” over the cylinder and give it one or two hits with a striking tool to seat the blades around the cylinder. Next pry in an upward direction with a quick force (Photo 3).   The cylinder can also be removed by using vice-grips (NOTE: some cylinders have a metal ring around the edge to prevent burglaries, this ring will have to be pried off to make using vice grips effective ), take a bite of the cylinder and twist clockwise to break the setscrews that hold it in place. Once the screws are released twist counter clockwise to unthread the cylinder (Photo 4).   Either method will result in the cylinder being removed and a hole left where it was. 

Once the cylinder has been removed the deadbolt it self will have to be manually manipulated.  To do so a “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver will be needed (Photo 5).  Upon inspection of the deadbolt you will see a vertical metal piece with a small round hole in it sitting to the left or right side of the large cylinder hole (Photo 6).  Place the “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver in the middle of the inner hole and press down (Photo 7).  Once the spring in the middle of the small hole is depressed, push the “Kerry Key” or flathead to the opposite side of where it is sitting while keeping downward pressure on the spring. This will move the deadbolt to the “UNLOCKED” position and allow entry (Photo 8).  This method is designed to allow us to secure the building when our operations have concluded.  To do so simply use the “Kerry-key” or flathead screwdriver to flip the dead bolt back to the “LOCKED” position. 

In the event that entry is deemed of the utmost importance, none of the above tools or methods are viable and securing   the building is not a concern.  It is possible to “cut” the deadbolt.  This will require a wedge, or set of irons and a saw with metal cutting capabilities.  First place either a wedge or flathead axe blade in the void between door and jamb.  Give it one hit to create space in the void, place saw in the void above the deadbolt and comedown the void onto the deadbolt with the blade until it is defeated (Photo 9). 

It is not recommended to break the glass pane in the middle of the door to gain entry.  Although this may seem an easy approach it presents a few problems.  Most doors have a cross bar in the middle of the pain that will hamper entry and egress.  Also jagged glass shards could cause injury to members and result in a burst/ spliced hose length further complicating operations (Photo 10). 

Both methods are designed to be fairly quick and uncomplicated processes that can be performed by 1-2 members.  As with any fire service operation, training is key.  Numerous props styles are available online, find one that works for your department and TRAIN ON IT!!!

Photo 1) a typical Hollow metal door with 90-degree deadbolt.

Photo 2) a k- tool, rex- tool can be used in removing the cylinder.

Photo 3) Prying upward with speed and force will result in quick and easy cylinder removal. 

Photo 4) Vise grips are used to unthread the cylinder.  

Photo 5) Kerry-key’s or a flathead screwdriver can be used to operate the dead bolt mechanism.

Photo 6) a deadbolt mechanism as found in the “LOCKED” position after cylinder removal.

Photo 7) Deadbolt “LOCKED” with Kerry-key inserted.

Photo 8) Deadbolt moved to “UNLOCKED” position, allowing for entry.  

Photo 9) Using the axe as wedge will create a gap, where a  metal cutting saw can be used to cut the deadbolt in certain situations.  

Photo 10) Breaking the glass pain could result in glass shards injuring members and bursting/ splicing hose lengths.  Also the push bar presents entry/egress issues.