The Hockey Puck Lock: An overview

The Hidden Shackle Padlock or “hockey puck lock” (HPL) as it’s more affectionately known has been a staple in major metropolitan cities for years (photo 1).  However this beefy looking lock is becoming commonplace all over the country from jobsites to cargo and delivery vans (photo 2).  Although this lock has a high intimidation factor,  it’s  fairly simple to over come on the fire-ground.

Before we get into how to defeat the HPL, lets identify the components and it’s operation.  Depending on the exact model it’s either made of solid steel or die cast with a flat or stepped back.  The lock body is 2-7/8" thick with a 1-1/4’’ round-stock shackle (photo 3).  The shackle is located on the backside of the lock face, making it invisible to the general public. The HPL can be used stand alone or paired with a “high security hasp”(photo 4).  This hasp has a shroud that covers the majority of the lock with exception of the keyhole and two side openings to allow the lock to be removed for normal operation. 

Now that a basic understanding has been established, lets transition to what matters most, Fire-ground operations involving the HPL.  Since these locks emerged there has been two basic ways to over come them, shearing or cutting the shackle.

The shearing method is recommended and pictured in many basic fire service textbooks (photo 5). The thought process behind this is to take a pipe-wrench with a cheater bar and exert a twisting force on the shackle with hopes of breaking it and allowing the lock body to be removed from the hasp.  This method has proven to be successful, yet labor intensive.

The second method for removing the HPL is using a saw, with metal cutting capabilities to cut through the lock body and shackle.  This is designed to be a quick and efficient

 operation, however, a solid size up will be required. The first step being to determine if the HPL has a high security hasp or not. If one is present be aware of it while cutting and don’t let the blade “jump” it.    Secondly locating the keyhole and directing your focus ¾ opposite the keyhole on the lock face (photo 6).  This area will be your “sweet spot” as it is directly behind this is the shackle.  If it hasn't already the saw should be procured and started.  Prior to making the first cut think about how the saw should be orientated to the cut (vertical or cradled horizontally) (photos 7 & 8).  As the cut is begun keep the blade steady on an even plane, working your way through the lock

face.  Once through the lock face the shackle should give fairly quickly as the area surrounding it is hollow.  A good gauge of where you're at in the cut is feeling the amount of resistance on the saw while looking  for movements of the lock body.  After the shackle is cut, the final step is to remove the remaining lock body from the hasp.  Once this is done, the lock has been successfully defeated.

A standard hidden shackle padlock or more commonly known hockey puck lock (photo 1, author)

Lock set up on the rear of a cargo van. (Photo 2, author)

1 ¼’’ round stock shackle is what secures the lock through the hasp. (Photo 3, author)

A hockey puck lock in a “high security hasp” (photo 4, author)

Textbook showing the “shearing” method. (Photo 5, photo credit to Fire Officers Handbook, first edition)

The tip of the pen cap points out the ¾ opposite the key- hole area for the cut (photo 6, author )

Horizontal orientation of saw on the lock. (Photo 7, author)    

Vertical orientation of  saw on the lock . (Photo 8, author)

Forcible Entry: Through the Lock.

The 90-degree deadbolt set in a hollow metal door is common all across the country from small towns to large cities (Photo1).  Being able to overcome this lock in a timely and efficient manor can help set the stage for smooth fire-ground operations.   This article will provide an overview of the common methods used to defeat these locks based upon urgency of entry and tools available. 

The most common method is “through the lock”; a two-step processes requiring removal of the lock cylinder and operation of the deadbolt mechanism.  Removing the cylinder can be accomplished using some basic tools.  Upon arrival members of the forcible entry team should conduct a quick size up.  The following should be addressed in short order 1) Is entry needed quickly for life safety or rapid fire spread or is it a less urgent type of call? 2) What tools are at our immediate disposal?  

Once these concerns have been addressed a plan can be formulated.   The steps for defeating this style lock are as follows: Remove cylinder using either a “K-tool”, “rex-tool” (Photo 2).  To do this place either the “K-tool” or “rex-tool” over the cylinder and give it one or two hits with a striking tool to seat the blades around the cylinder. Next pry in an upward direction with a quick force (Photo 3).   The cylinder can also be removed by using vice-grips (NOTE: some cylinders have a metal ring around the edge to prevent burglaries, this ring will have to be pried off to make using vice grips effective ), take a bite of the cylinder and twist clockwise to break the setscrews that hold it in place. Once the screws are released twist counter clockwise to unthread the cylinder (Photo 4).   Either method will result in the cylinder being removed and a hole left where it was. 

Once the cylinder has been removed the deadbolt it self will have to be manually manipulated.  To do so a “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver will be needed (Photo 5).  Upon inspection of the deadbolt you will see a vertical metal piece with a small round hole in it sitting to the left or right side of the large cylinder hole (Photo 6).  Place the “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver in the middle of the inner hole and press down (Photo 7).  Once the spring in the middle of the small hole is depressed, push the “Kerry Key” or flathead to the opposite side of where it is sitting while keeping downward pressure on the spring. This will move the deadbolt to the “UNLOCKED” position and allow entry (Photo 8).  This method is designed to allow us to secure the building when our operations have concluded.  To do so simply use the “Kerry-key” or flathead screwdriver to flip the dead bolt back to the “LOCKED” position. 

In the event that entry is deemed of the utmost importance, none of the above tools or methods are viable and securing   the building is not a concern.  It is possible to “cut” the deadbolt.  This will require a wedge, or set of irons and a saw with metal cutting capabilities.  First place either a wedge or flathead axe blade in the void between door and jamb.  Give it one hit to create space in the void, place saw in the void above the deadbolt and comedown the void onto the deadbolt with the blade until it is defeated (Photo 9). 

It is not recommended to break the glass pane in the middle of the door to gain entry.  Although this may seem an easy approach it presents a few problems.  Most doors have a cross bar in the middle of the pain that will hamper entry and egress.  Also jagged glass shards could cause injury to members and result in a burst/ spliced hose length further complicating operations (Photo 10). 

Both methods are designed to be fairly quick and uncomplicated processes that can be performed by 1-2 members.  As with any fire service operation, training is key.  Numerous props styles are available online, find one that works for your department and TRAIN ON IT!!!

Photo 1) a typical Hollow metal door with 90-degree deadbolt.

Photo 2) a k- tool, rex- tool can be used in removing the cylinder.

Photo 3) Prying upward with speed and force will result in quick and easy cylinder removal. 

Photo 4) Vise grips are used to unthread the cylinder.  

Photo 5) Kerry-key’s or a flathead screwdriver can be used to operate the dead bolt mechanism.

Photo 6) a deadbolt mechanism as found in the “LOCKED” position after cylinder removal.

Photo 7) Deadbolt “LOCKED” with Kerry-key inserted.

Photo 8) Deadbolt moved to “UNLOCKED” position, allowing for entry.  

Photo 9) Using the axe as wedge will create a gap, where a  metal cutting saw can be used to cut the deadbolt in certain situations.  

Photo 10) Breaking the glass pain could result in glass shards injuring members and bursting/ splicing hose lengths.  Also the push bar presents entry/egress issues.