The 90-degree deadbolt set in a hollow metal door is common
all across the country from small towns to large cities (Photo1). Being able to overcome this lock in a
timely and efficient manor can help set the stage for smooth fire-ground operations. This article will provide an
overview of the common methods used to defeat these locks based upon urgency of
entry and tools available.
The most common method is “through the lock”; a two-step
processes requiring removal of the lock cylinder and operation of the deadbolt mechanism. Removing the cylinder can be
accomplished using some basic tools.
Upon arrival members of the forcible entry team should conduct a quick
size up. The following should be
addressed in short order 1) Is entry needed quickly for life safety or rapid
fire spread or is it a less urgent type of call? 2) What tools are at our immediate
disposal?
Once these concerns have been addressed a plan can be
formulated. The steps for
defeating this style lock are as follows: Remove cylinder using either a
“K-tool”, “rex-tool” (Photo 2). To
do this place either the “K-tool” or “rex-tool” over the cylinder and give it
one or two hits with a striking tool to seat the blades around the cylinder.
Next pry in an upward direction with a quick force (Photo 3). The cylinder can also be removed
by using vice-grips (NOTE: some cylinders have a metal ring around the edge to
prevent burglaries, this ring will have to be pried off to make using vice
grips effective ), take a bite of the cylinder and twist clockwise to break the
setscrews that hold it in place. Once the screws are released twist counter
clockwise to unthread the cylinder (Photo 4). Either method will result in the cylinder being
removed and a hole left where it was.
Once the cylinder has been removed the deadbolt it self will
have to be manually manipulated.
To do so a “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver will be needed (Photo 5). Upon inspection of the deadbolt you
will see a vertical metal piece with a small round hole in it sitting to the
left or right side of the large cylinder hole (Photo 6). Place the “Kerry Key” or flat head screwdriver
in the middle of the inner hole and press down (Photo 7). Once the spring in the middle of the
small hole is depressed, push the “Kerry Key” or flathead to the opposite side
of where it is sitting while keeping downward pressure on the spring. This will
move the deadbolt to the “UNLOCKED” position and allow entry (Photo 8). This method is designed to allow us to
secure the building when our operations have concluded. To do so simply use the “Kerry-key” or
flathead screwdriver to flip the dead bolt back to the “LOCKED” position.
In the event that entry is deemed of the utmost importance,
none of the above tools or methods are viable and securing the building is not a
concern. It is possible to “cut”
the deadbolt. This will require a
wedge, or set of irons and a saw with metal cutting capabilities. First place either a wedge or flathead
axe blade in the void between door and jamb. Give it one hit to create space in the void, place saw in
the void above the deadbolt and comedown the void onto the deadbolt with the
blade until it is defeated (Photo 9).
It is not recommended to break the glass pane in the middle
of the door to gain entry.
Although this may seem an easy approach it presents a few problems. Most doors have a cross bar in the
middle of the pain that will hamper entry and egress. Also jagged glass shards could cause injury to members and
result in a burst/ spliced hose length further complicating operations (Photo
10).
Both methods are designed to be fairly quick and
uncomplicated processes that can be performed by 1-2 members. As with any fire service operation,
training is key. Numerous props
styles are available online, find one that works for your department and TRAIN
ON IT!!!
Photo 1) a typical Hollow metal door with 90-degree
deadbolt.
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Photo 2) a k- tool, rex- tool can be used in removing the
cylinder.
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Photo 3) Prying upward with speed and force will result in
quick and easy cylinder removal.
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Photo 4) Vise grips are used to unthread the cylinder.
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Photo 5) Kerry-key’s or a flathead screwdriver can be used
to operate the dead bolt mechanism.
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Photo 6) a deadbolt mechanism as found in the “LOCKED”
position after cylinder removal.
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Photo 7) Deadbolt “LOCKED” with Kerry-key inserted.
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Photo 8) Deadbolt moved to “UNLOCKED” position, allowing for
entry.
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Photo 9) Using the axe as wedge will create a gap, where a metal cutting saw can be used to cut the
deadbolt in certain situations.
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Photo 10) Breaking the glass pain could result in glass
shards injuring members and bursting/ splicing hose lengths. Also the push bar presents entry/egress
issues.
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